Author Archives: Africa Clockwise

Black Monuments Matter

Ruby and I had to admit Sampson had been right: the appallingly steep ascent into Lalibela would’ve killed Big Reg’s engine if we’d carried on in the heat of the day before. Even more challenging, the road was still in … Continue reading

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Lean In

In Ethiopia, people greet by grasping right hands before leaning their right shoulders to touch each other. ‘Leaning in’ is exactly how you need to approach the country and its people. It’s not for the fainthearted, but very rewarding if … Continue reading

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Camelot For Real

Ecologically, Ethiopia is a dramatically diverse country, with deserts along the eastern border, tropical forests in the south and extensive Afromontane in the northern and southwestern parts. The Ethiopian Highlands cover most of the territory and have a considerably cooler … Continue reading

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Uphill

There is something otherworldly about Ethiopia. It isn’t just the fact that Ethiopians are living seven years and three months behind our calendar or count 7am as 1 o’clock. Or that their churches hewn from solid rock in medieval times … Continue reading

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Back on the Tightrope

Could there be a silver lining to the hearse-black world-covering cloud of COVID-19? Could the fact that more than 10% of infected people go on to develop long term complications unlock vital funds that will finally enable groundbreaking research into … Continue reading

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Akhdar

M.E. has made me super sensitive to any drugs – way back in Congo in 2013 when I started taking malaria prophylactic medication, I was unable to even take a ¼ of a doxycycline pill because they made me feel … Continue reading

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Nile Riders

As I’ve said, the Sudanese were the loveliest people on the whole continent, and these next two blogs are dedicated to two of the kindest people we met in Khartoum… Continue reading

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Death Star

During our stay in Khartoum, it became increasingly apparent that Sudanese people are perhaps the most lovely on the whole continent: the sweetest, kindest, gentlest and most welcoming. It wasn’t just the wood-gathering woman or farmer Aboud, there were luminous … Continue reading

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Hit Me With Your Rhythm, Stick

On Sunday 18th Feb, despite Sampson’s concern about dodgy brakes, Big Reg set off across the bleak desert to Karima. Thanks to the straight new tar, I only had to lie down for the second half of the journey. Before … Continue reading

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Haboob

It wasn’t until the colours of Sudan hit me that I realised how oppressively drab the standard wear of Egypt was: men in brown or dark grey and women mostly in sober tones, often black. In Sudan the men wear … Continue reading

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